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All national parks have routes of public access, though many of the ones in more isolated areas - Baritú, Perito Moreno, and Santiago del Estero's Copo, for example - are not served by any public transport or even tour vehicles, and the only way of visiting is by renting your own transport. Most parks are free to visit, but in some of the more touristy ones, there's often a fee (usually $5 per visit), which is charged at the park gate. Scenic attractions such as the falls in Iguazú, Cerro Trondador and the Isla Victoria in Nahuel Huapi, or the Perito Moreno Glacier in Los Glaciares, thus serve to generate funds for less commercial parks that are still vitally important from an ecological perspective. In certain of the larger parks, such as Nahuel Huapi and Lanín, you are charged only to access the areas not served by a main public highway.

Camping is possible in virtually all parks, and sites are graded according to three categories: camping libre sites, which are free but have no or very few services (perhaps a latrine and sometimes a shower block); camping agreste sites, charging $2 per person, which are run as concessions and provide a minimum of hot water, showers, toilets, places for lighting a campfire, and usually some sort of small shop; and camping organizado sites, charged at about $5 per person, which have more services, including electricity and often some sort of restaurant. In some areas, Bariloche being the most obvious example, local climbing clubs maintain a network of refuges for trekkers and climbers. These range in quality from free places with ground space for sleeping bags but no services, to others costing up to $10 per person per night, with mattresses and meals available, and a small shop on site.

Always try to be environmentally responsible on your visit. Stick to marked trails, camp only at authorized sites, take all litter with you (don't burn it), bury all toilet waste and choose a spot at least 30m away from all water sources, and use detergents or toothpastes as sparingly as possible, choosing biodegradable options such as glycerine soap. Above all, please pay particular respect to the fire risk in all parks. Every year, fires destroy huge swathes of forest, and virtually all of these are started by hand: some deliber ately, but most because of an unpardonable negligence. As ever, one of the prime culprits is the cigarette butt, often casually tossed out of a car window, but just as bad are campfires - both ones that are poorly tended and ones that are poorly extinguished. Woodland becomes tinder-dry in summer droughts, and, especially in places such as Patagonia, it is vulnerable to the sparks carried by the strong winds. Once started, winds, inaccessibility, and limited water resources mean that fires can turn into infernos that can blaze for weeks on end, and much fire-damaged land never regenerates its growth. Many parks have a complete ban on lighting campfires and trekkers are asked to take stoves upon which to do their cooking: please respect this. Others ban fires during high-risk periods. The most environmentally responsible approach is to avoid lighting campfires at all: even dead wood has a role to play in often fragile ecosystems. If you do need to light one, never choose a spot on peaty soil, as peat, once it has caught, becomes virtually impossible to put out. Choose a spot on stony or sandy soil, use only fallen wood, and always extinguish the fire with water, not earth, stirring up the ashes to ensure all embers are quenched.


 

 
 

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