One of the most beautiful of all Patagonian towns,
SAN MARTÍN DE LOS ANDES is a small resort of chalets and low-key architecture set in a flat, sheltered valley at the eastern end of
Lago Lácar , compressed between steep-sided slopes that are covered in native cypress (
ciprés de la cordillera ) and forestry pine. In spring, the introduced broom (
retama ) daubs the scenery on the approach roads a sunny yellow. Expansion here has been rapid, but - with the exception of the hideously out-of-place
Hotel Sol de Los Andes that overlooks town - by no means as uncontrolled as in its much larger rival resort, Bariloche; and whereas Bariloche caters for the young party crowd, San Martín has deliberately set itself up for a more sedate type of small-town tourism, pitching for families rather than students.
There is little to do in town itself, bar shopping, sunning yourself on the small beach by the lake, or popping in to the tiny Museo de los Primeros Pobladores (Tues-Fri 10am-7pm, Sat & Sun 3-8pm; $1) on the main square, which has exhibits on archeology and skiing. In winter, especially July and August, hotels pack out with Argentines coming to ski at the nearby resort of Chapelco , one of the country's best.
El Trabún (meaning the "Union of the Peoples") is the main annual festival , held in early December in the Plaza San Martín. Local and Chilean musicians hold concerts (predominantly folklore), and big bonfires are lit at the corners of the square to prepare asados of lamb and goat.
