A
land of
adventures and
adventurers, of
myths and
fabulous reality
- the only thing
that parallels
Patagonia's
geographical
immensity is the
size of its
reputation. As a
region of
contrasts and
extremes it has
few equals in
the world: from
the biting winds
that howl off
the
Hielo
Continental Sur
(Southern
Patagonian
Icecap) to the
comforting
hearthside
warmth of
old-time
Patagonian
hospitality;
from the lowest
point on the
South American
continent, the
Gran Bajo de
San Julián ,
to the savage
peaks of the
Fitz Roy massif
or
San
Lorenzo ;
from the sterile
desert plains of
the coastline to
the astoundingly
rich marine
breeding grounds
which abut them,
among which the
Península
Valdés is
the crowned
king.
The term
"Patagonia" was
formerly used to
refer to all
lands on both
sides of the
Andes that lay
to the south of
the southernmost
white
settlement. On
the Argentinian
side this once
signified, in
effect, any land
south of Buenos
Aires, though as
the whites
gained control
of increasing
amounts of
indigenous
territory, so
Patagonia's
frontiers were
pushed ever
southwards. By
the nineteenth
century, the
concept of
Patagonia had
begun to take on
a more fixed
location, one
which is usually
defined today as
all lands to the
south of
Argentina's
Río Colorado
and Chile's
Río Bio Bio
. This section
deals with all
of Argentinian
Patagonia, with
the exception of
Tierra del Fuego
and the
northwestern
Lake District,
and also
includes a
section on the
deep south of
mainland Chilean
Patagonia.
The region's
principal
artery, the
RN3 , runs
south from the
historic town of
Carmen de
Patagones
right across
Patagonia to
Río Gallegos
and the border
with Chile,
providing access
to the narrow
fringe of
Atlantic
coastline plus
the vast central
steppe. This
desiccated area,
covered by tough
coirón
grassland and
scrub, is grey
and dusty for
most of the
year, except for
brief periods
when spring
rains bring
forth green
shoots and
isolated carpets
of yellow
flowers. The few
poplar and
willow trees
that exist
shelter
sheep-farming
estancias or
cling to the
banks of the
rare rivers that
run eastwards
from the Andes.
From these
plains rise
spectacular,
eroded mesetas,
punctuated by
areas of genuine
desert.
South of
Carmen de
Patagones, the
principal
highlight of
Chubut Province
is the fabulous
wildlife reserve
of Península
Valdés ,
where rare
marine mammals
breed in their
thousands
between July and
April. Nearby is
the resort town
of Puerto
Madryn and,
just to the
south, the
valley of the
Río Chubut ,
where you can
explore the
cultural legacy
of the Welsh
pioneers in the
villages of
Gaiman and
Dolavon ,
and at the town
of Trelew
, Welsh by name
if less
obviously by
nature.
South of
Trelew, up to a
million birds
nest at the
continent's
largest penguin
colony, Punta
Tombo . West
of the region's
industrial hub,
Comodoro
Rivadavia ,
lies the
peaceful farming
community of
Sarmiento ,
and its
petrified
forests, set in
eerie
moonscapes.
South of
Comodoro, in
Santa Cruz
Province, are
the spectacular
porphyry cliffs
of the estuary
at Puerto
Deseado ,
famous for its
colourful
colonies of
seabirds and its
playful
Commerson's
dolphins, while
another detour
off the RN3
brings you to
the
150-million-year-old
petrified trees
of the
Monumento
Natural Bosques
Petrificados
. Passing the
unhurried port
of San Julián
you come to
sites where
dedicated fly-
fishermen with
daily budgets
ranging from $10
to $1000 come
from around the
globe, in
particular the
Río Gallegos
, a river which
meets the sea at
the town of the
same name.
The second
principal artery
of Argentine
Patagonia is the
famous - and
largely unpaved
- RN40 ,
which runs
parallel to the
Andes, at a
distance of
roughly 90km.
Detours off the
RN40 provide
access to the
western fringe
of the vast
desert steppe
and to the area
right up against
the Andes, where
the scenery
changes
abruptly: in
many spots here
you'll find
forests of
southern beech.
Although some
places are
difficult to
reach, this
western fringe
is where you'll
find the most
impressive of
Argentine
Patagonia's
great lakes and
national parks,
as well as the
finest
spit-roast lamb
asados
and some
uniquely wild
skies. Taking
the RN40 south
from Esquel
brings you to
the first-rate
trout-fishing
lakes in the
Río Pico
area and the
mighty Lago
Buenos Aires
, with its
useful border
crossing point
into Chile.
South of Lago
Buenos Aires
you'll find the
canyon of Río
Pinturas, home
to one of
Argentina's most
famous
archeological
sites, the
Cueva de las
Manos Pintadas
, with its
striking,
10,000-year-old
rock art; west
of here are the
beautiful
Lagos Posadas
and
Pueyrredón ,
lying in a
largely
unexplored area
which contains
the stately peak
of San Lorenzo.
Just to the
south of here
stretches the
wilderness of
Parque Nacional
Perito Moreno
, one of the
most
inaccessible of
Argentina's
national parks,
with the
aquamarine gem
of Lago Belgrano
and excellent
trekking
possibilities.
Beyond here are
two of the
region's star
attractions: the
trekkers' and
climbers'
paradise of the
Fitz Roy
sector of the
Parque Nacional
Los Glaciares
, accessed from
El Chaltén; and
the craggy blue
face of the
Perito Moreno
glacier ,
regularly cited
as one of the
world's natural
wonders,
situated near
the town of El
Calafate.
Between these
two sites lie
two gigantic
lakes fed by the
Southern
Patagonian
Icecap - Lago
Viedma and
Lago
Argentino .
Finally, we
cover the deep
south of Chilean
Patagonia around
the area of
Punta Arenas and
Puerto Natales,
including the
spectacular
Torres del Paine
national park.
In these
southernmost
latitudes, the
lands are not
quite as
parched, and
even the odd
tongue of
woodland begins
to stretch away
from the
mountains.
The area's
tourist
infrastructure
has expanded
considerably
over the last
ten years, but
it is still
primitive in
many areas: if
planning to
visit the
lesser-known
sites you'll
need reserves of
patience and
flexibility,
both in terms of
time and style
of travel.
Barring a few
exceptions, such
as Carmen de
Patagones, the
region's
towns are
not tourist
destinations in
themselves. Set
out on a uniform
grid pattern,
they are
generally
uninspiring,
low-key places
with little
overriding
architectural
style, few
sights, and
little in the
way of distinct
character. Most
are useful only
as transport
hubs or bases
for tours in the
surrounding
area.
High
season runs
from December to
the end of
February, and
it's important
to book
accommodation
and other
services in
advance during
this period.
November is a
pleasant month
to visit,
although the
winds that scour
Patagonia are at
their most
unremitting. The
period from
March to Easter
can be one of
the most
rewarding in
which to travel:
most tourist
services are
still open, but
you'll avoid the
crowds, while
the Patagonian
forests along
the Andean spine
assume their
autumnal colours
and the winds
are less
incessant.
Close season
runs from Easter
to around the
end of October.
At this time,
temperatures can
plummet to
-25°C, and many
mountain roads
become
impassable.
Public transport
becomes
extremely
infrequent and
there's very
little tourist
traffic, with
the exception of
those who visit
Península Valdés
to see the
breeding of the
southern right
whales and sea
elephants.
Though
cheaper than in
the early 1990s,
Patagonia is
still renowned
for its high
prices . For
those with a
healthy wad of
pesos, the range
of
accommodation
available
reaches
international
standards of
luxury in a few
places, though
for those on a
tight budget
there's little
option but to
hitch, camp and
cut out the
luxuries.
Reasonably
priced dormitory
accommodation is
available in the
more popular
spots, but
elsewhere cheap
options can be
hard to find,
particularly for
singles.
Despite the
distances
involved,
driving is
relatively
cheap, as fuel
in the provinces
of Chubut and
Santa Cruz is
subsidized by
fifty percent.
Be aware of the
need for caution
on the region's
many gravel
roads, however.
Visitors who
have limited
time, or who are
less interested
in getting an
impression of
the vast scale
of the place,
should try to
make use of
domestic flights
to avoid some
rather gruelling
bus journeys.
Airports at
Trelew, El
Calafate, Río
Gallegos and
Comodoro
Rivadavia all
have regular
connections to
the capital.
