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Road maps can be obtained at bookshops and kiosks in all big towns and cities or at service-stations but are quite hard to find anywhere else. Many maps aren't up to date or contain a surprising number of errors: road numbers are sometimes wrong; barely passable tracks may be depicted as sealed roads or vice versa; and roads that have been there for years are missed out while routes that nobody has ever heard of are clearly marked. It's often a good idea to buy a couple of maps and compare them as you go along, always checking with the locals to see whether a given road does exist and is passable, especially with the vehicle you intend to use.

The really good news is that the clearest and most accurate map of the whole country is the one you can get free from the national tourist office in Buenos Aires; it's called Rutas de la Argentina and has small but clear inset maps of twenty towns and cities as well as a 1:2,500,000 national map, the ideal scale for most travellers. Slightly more detailed but a tad less accurate is the mini atlas ( Atlas Vial ) published by YPF , the national petrol company and sold for $10 at their service stations. The ACA (Automóvil Club) produces individual maps for each province which vary enormously in detail and accuracy; the regional maps or route planners the club publishes may be enough for most travellers, especially since the provincial maps cost $5 each.

Glossy and fairly clear - but equally erratic - regional road maps (Cuyo, Northwest, Lake District, etc) are produced by Línea Azul under the generic name of AutoMapa and are often available at petrol stations and bookshops, as are the similar Argenguide series of maps, published by Argentum. These all cost around $8. Outside Argentina you can get hold of the user-friendly Kevin Healey's Travel Map of Argentina (though at 1:4,000,000 the scale's a bit small), and the World's End Maps of different areas of Patagonia, published by Zagier and Urruty ( zagiel@ciudad.com.ar ). Finally, there's a brilliant map of Buenos Aires, the Insight Fleximap , which is clear, reliable, easy to fold and waterproof.

The street plans istributed free of charge at tourist offices also range from the highly detailed to the impressionistic, and some of them are dominated by their private sponsors rather than designed to steer you easily around a given town or city. Luckily, most urban areas, with their convenient grid-systems and publicly displayed maps, are difficult to get lost in and many locals are only too happy to give directions. Some cities produce directories of services hat include detailed maps, with transport routes.

For 1:100,000 ordnance-survey style maps he Instituto Geográfico Militar at Av. Cabildo 381, Casilla 1426, in Buenos Aires, is the place to go (Mon-Fri 8am-1pm; tel 011/4576-5545, fax 011/4576-5509). The maps cost around $15 each but you might be able to get a photocopy for less; although these topographical maps - and the colour satellite maps sold here at similar prices - are great to look at and very detailed, they're not really very practical unless you're used to maps of this type.


 

 
 

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