The welcome sight of greenery as you approach the serene little town of
LOS ANTIGUOS is your first indication of the spring-like microclimate that exists in this area of the precordillera. High levels of sunshine and a sheltered position mean that, even at these southerly latitudes, it's an area well suited to fruit production, being famous for its succulent cherries, which are exported as far away as Europe. In early January, the crop is celebrated at the three-day
Fiesta de la Cereza with music, dance, and fresh, cheap strawberries and cherries. Carnivores will enjoy the annual
Fiesta del Pueblo held on February 5, if only for the vast orgy of free meat-eating that goes on.
The roadside into town is littered with Tehuelche tombs , little jumbles of blackened stones, now desecrated by artefact-hunters, that testify to the fact that this was one of the sacred places where the elderly would come to spend their last days once advancing age had made a nomadic life impossible - indeed, the town gets its name ("The Ancients") from this legacy.
The poetically sounding Río Jeinemeni (also spelt "Jeinimeni") has first-class salmon fishing. Running south from Los Antiguos, parallel to this river, is the stunningly scenic and desolate RP41 . This road, just about the only Patagonian route that runs alongside the border with Chile, passes the angular form of Monte Zeballos (2743m), on its way to Lago Posadas, or Cochrane in Chile by way of the Paso Roballos. You'll need a high-clearance 4WD and to check road conditions at the Gendarmería on Avenida 11 de Julio before setting out (ask for the informe de vialidad provincial ), as even in summer freak snowfalls or heavy rains may make it impassable. If you're fit enough, the route takes about three days by mountain bike in the summer.
