Now that Fitz Roy is no longer a well-kept secret and an exclusive private paradise for climbers, the village of
EL CHALTÉN has undergone a convulsive expansion. Established in 1985, this thriving tourist centre is regrettably showing signs of uncontrolled development, and whereas certain buildings have been built in a style sympathetic to the mountain surroundings, others would look more at ease in the beach resort of Mar del Plata. That said, the atmosphere in the village is pleasant and relaxed, with a friendly mix of young Argentinians and foreign visitors.
Rearing up on the opposite bank of the Río de las Vueltas is the curiously stepped, dark grey cliff face of Cerro Pirámide , while from the southern and eastern fringes of the village the tips of the park's most daunting peaks, Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre, can be glimpsed. Otherwise, in terms of specific sights, there is only the classically uncluttered Alpine chapel on the eastern edge of the village. Built by Austrian craftsmen with Austrian materials, it's a fitting memorial to the climbing purist, Toni Egger, as well as others who have lost their lives in the park.
More than most tourist centres, El Chaltén shuts up shop for the winter season. Between Easter and mid-October, many establishments are closed. Conversely, in high season, especially January, it is advisable to book accommodation in advance. As with most parks in Patagonia, autumn is a good time to visit: March and April are beautiful months, when the wind normally drops. The spring months of October and November are also good for avoiding the crowds, if not the winds
