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Nearly all of the ground floor at the MNBA is taken up by paintings and sculpture from France (mostly), Italy, Holland and Spain, plus later works by artists from the United States - José de Ribera, Tiepolo, Toulouse-Lautrec, van Gogh, Sisley, Pollock and Rothko are all given pride of place. Virtually every Argentine artist worth his or her salt studied in Europe and slavishly imitated European styles, such as naturalism and Impressionism - and their work has been "relegated" to the upper floor. They include Prilidiano Pueyrredón (1823-70), Un alto en la pulpería ( c . 1860); Eduardo Sívori (1847-1918), El despertar de la criada (1887); Martín Malharro (1865-1911), Las parvas (1911); Fernando Fader (1882-1935), Los mantones de Manila (1914); and Valentín Thibon de Libian (1889-1931), La fragua (1916), all masterpieces in their way. One of the country's greatest-ever sculptors, realist Rogelio Yrurtia (1879-1950), heavily influenced by Rodin, was chosen to create a number of rather bombastic monuments across Buenos Aires, and his house in Belgrano is now a fascinating museum.

Apart from Xul Solar, who wanted South America to find its own artistic feet, the overwhelming majority of Argentina's artists continued to fix their gaze relentlessly on Europe throughout the 1930s - the so-called " década infama ", a period of political repression, economic depression, immigration controls and general melancholy - and increasingly on the United States, for inspiration, following trends and joining movements. Two of the greatest Argentine artists active in that period were Antonio Berni (1905-81), whose Primeros pasos (1937) is on display at the MNBA, and Lino Enea Spilimbergo (1896-1964) - seek out his Figura (1937) hanging nearby. Both were taught by the now much-overlooked French Surrealist André Lhôte, as shows clearly in their paintings, which aimed to depict the social reality of an Argentina in economic and political turmoil without espousing any political cause, whether left or right - Berni was hailed as the leader of the so-called Arte Político . His incredibly moving La Torre Eiffel en la Pampa (1930) singlehandedly seems to sum up the continuing dilemma among Argentine artists - are they nostalgic for Paris while in Argentina or for Buenos Aires and the pampas when in Europe?


 

 
 

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